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Worker in gloves on a pipe in a trench beside an old stone foundation.

D-04REPAIR / REPLACE

Sewer line repair and replacement, dig or trenchless

When a line is broken, cleaning won't fix it. We show you the damage on camera, explain the repair options that fit your pipe, your yard and your ledge, and give you a flat-rate price in writing for each one.

01

Signs your sewer line needs repair, not cleaning

  • The main line clogs again within weeks of being cleared
  • The camera shows a collapsed section, missing pieces, a long belly or a separated joint
  • A soggy or sunken patch in the yard along the sewer path
  • Sewer smell outside, or a lush green stripe across the lawn in August
  • Orangeburg pipe that has gone oval
02

Your repair options

02.1

Spot repair

Fix one bad section, usually 4 to 10 feet, by digging at the marked spot. Good when the rest of the line is in decent shape. Our locator marks the exact spot, so the hole is small.

02.2

Full replacement by excavation

Dig and replace the line from the house to the street connection or the septic tank with new PVC. Best for collapsed pipe, long bellies, Orangeburg, or lines that run too shallow. Excavation also lets us fix the slope, which no trenchless method can do.

02.3

Trenchless pipe lining (CIPP)

We pull a resin-soaked liner into the old pipe and cure it in place, forming a new, jointless pipe inside the old one. Roots can't get in at joints that no longer exist. Lining works when the old pipe still holds its shape and doesn't have a serious belly. The front lawn, the driveway and the maple tree stay where they are.

02.4

Trenchless pipe bursting

A bursting head is pulled through the old pipe, breaking it outward while pulling new pipe in behind it. It needs a pit at each end, not a trench the whole way. Good for replacing clay tile or cast iron under a driveway or walkway, when the soil allows it.

New pipe laid on a stone bedding in a narrow trench.
03

Trenchless in New Hampshire: an honest view

Trenchless repairs are great when they fit. Around Manchester, a few things decide whether they do:

  • Ledge. Granite ledge can make bursting impossible and digging expensive. Lining often wins when ledge is close to the pipe.
  • Bellies. A liner follows the old pipe, sag and all. If water sits in a low spot today, it'll sit there in the new liner too.
  • Collapsed sections. A liner needs a path. If the pipe has collapsed, that section gets dug first.
  • Depth. Frost depth here means sewer lines run deep, which makes digging bigger and trenchless more attractive.

The camera footage answers most of these questions before we quote. We'll tell you if trenchless doesn't fit, even when it's what you hoped to hear.

04

Digging in New Hampshire

  • Dig Safe first. Before any excavation we file the required utility mark-out request and wait for gas, electric and water lines to be marked.
  • Permits. We handle the sewer permit and inspection with your town or the city.
  • Frost and season. We dig year-round, but deep frost in January and February can add time. We'll say so in the quote.
  • Restoration. We backfill, compact and rough-grade the area. Loam and seed, pavement or walkway repair are quoted separately so you can see each cost, or you can use your own landscaper.
Worker digging a trench in snow with new pipe stubs in place.
05

What to expect

  1. Camera and locate. Recorded video, depth and location marked.
  2. Options in writing. Each repair method that fits, with a flat-rate price and what's included.
  3. Schedule. Mark-out, permit, and a start date. For urgent failures we'll keep the line usable in the meantime when we can.
  4. The work. Most spot repairs and lining jobs take one day. Full replacements usually take one to three.
  5. Inspection and final video. The town inspects where required, and we record a camera run of the finished line for your files.
06

Our word on the work

We stand behind our work. If something we fixed isn't right, call us and we'll come back and make it right.

07

Sewer repair questions

Q01

How do I know if I need a repair or just a cleaning?

The camera tells us. Roots and grease in a sound pipe can be cleaned. A collapsed section, missing pieces, a separated joint or a long belly can't be cleaned away. We'll show you the footage and explain which category your line falls into before quoting anything.

Q02

Is trenchless always cheaper than digging?

Not always. Trenchless often costs less overall when the line runs under a driveway, a patio, mature trees or deep ledge, because there's much less restoration. For a short, shallow run across open lawn, a traditional dig can cost less. We'll quote both when both are possible.

Q03

Who is responsible for the sewer line, me or the city?

In most New Hampshire towns the homeowner owns the lateral from the house to the connection at the main, and sometimes to the main itself. Rules vary by town, so ask us about your town's rules. We can check the plan and permit requirements before we quote.

Q04

Do you repair lines going to a septic tank?

Yes. We repair and replace the building sewer between the house and the septic tank, including the inlet connection. We don't repair tanks or leach fields. If the camera shows the problem is in the septic system itself, we'll show you the footage so your septic company can see it too.

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